travel

Ojika Island

From Shin-Kamigoto, we took a short ferry ride to Ojika, a smaller, less mountainy island with a peaceful fishing village vibe. We hired electric bikes for our stay, and with the help of the incredible staff (thank you Victoria!) at the tourist office, started our perfect three day visit.

We explored the whole island, cycling over the gentle slopes and having picnic lunches. We wandered in the main village near the port, sat on beaches with turquoise waters, and watched glorious sunsets…

We stayed in a restored kominka and I loved this particular room with the tatami floors and lovely view. I sketched in the house, and used the large table surrounded by windows as a temporary illustration studio.

There was so much inspiration everywhere, I felt like I could keep drawing forever. Here’s my first sketch in the town, drawn while sitting on the steps outside a temple.

I particularily loved doing the local pilgrimage ‘stamp rally’ where you collect stamps for specific locations. I love these Japanese location stamps, and doing the rally meant we found places we might not have done otherwise. We got lost, but loved it!

This was honestly one of the best and most enjoyable places we’ve ever stayed in Japan, with many, many years of Japan travelling under our belts. It wasn’t that the views were spectacular, or famous, but that the atmosphere was truly special, the local people so welcoming, and the feeling of experiencing a genuine rural Japanese life. They’ve really gone out of their way to preserve something unique, while keeping up with modern times. I loved that there were no convenience stores, only local shops, and that the pace of life was just that much slower. I miss it already…

You can find out everything you want to know about going to Ojika here. I wish I could share this place with everyone.

Nagasaki visit

Last weekend we went to Nagasaki for one day and managed to do an amazing amount!

We visited Dejima, the island where the first Europeans who visited and traded with Japan lived. It’s in the process of being restored as a historic site, and the museum and buildings were fascinating.

And then we spent the rest of the day eating the local specialities (Turkish rice, champon, castella), wandering the streets, and riding the awesome old trams!

Nagasaki totally charmed me. One day was just not long enough. Can’t wait to visit again!

Art Biotop

I just got back from a wonderful week in Tochigiken, staying in an airbnb and working from home, but taking time out to go for walks in the mountain air and visit a few local spots. One of those spots was Art Biotop in Nasu.

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It’s a water garden designed by Japanese architect Junya Ishigami. It was truly magical. I wandered around the pools, admiring the reflections of the trees and watching tiny frogs jumping and hiding in the mud at the bottom of each pool…

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I sketched a little, sitting on one of the carefully placed rocks, and marvelled at the balance of everything.

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A beautiful white heron flew in and walked right past me as I sketched, totally unafraid. If you’re ever in the area, I really recommend a visit!

a trip to the countryside

After a succession of grey rainy weeks in Tokyo, it was a pleasure to take a few days off and visit the countryside. We stayed in 2 cabins, the first near Karuizawa, the second in Gunma. I sketched a little…

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…and spent the rest of the time walking, taking photographs, and eating many, many different kinds of apples.

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I already can’t wait to go on another trip…

Point Reyes

It’s my birthday weekend! As a treat, I managed to go on a little trip (not too far) and spent 2 days in and around Point Reyes, visiting the Point Reyes National Seashore, and even managed to do some sketching…

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This is Indian Beach, and it was totally empty, except for jellyfish, floating along happily in the sunshine.

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I sketched the sailing boats in Tomales Bay, and then the wetlands and bridge over the mouth of the river where it fed into the bay.

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Cow Track Ranch was an incredible, cosy place to stay, and I loved the whole cowboy feeling of the interiors! Also the chickens and swallows…

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The hills were all dry and yellow, but still beautiful. I really hope it rains soon, and that the land can become green again.

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Can’t wait for another little trip there soon!

walking locally

Yesterday was vaccine day! Out of quarantine at last, walking in the local area was so full of wonderful things to look at…

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The day started out cloudy, but soon turned into the perfect summer day…so happy to have had the first shot and can’t wait to be fully vaccinated!

Bessho Onsen

A few weekends ago we took a trip to Bessho Onsen, a little town near Nagano, in a pretty little snowy valley. It's the last stop on the local train and has several ryokans and shrines. We stayed in a magnificent place called Ryokan Hanaya Nagano.

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It used to be a Samurai residence, and has been a ryokan Since the Meiji era. Our room was sublime and we spent most of our time there tucked up cosily in the kotatsu!

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I loved the rotemburo, the baths and the dining rooms and drew some of the beautiful dishes we were served.

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We walked around the town in the freezing but beautiful sunny weather and admired Anrakuji where the wooden octagonal pagoda is a national treasure of Japan.

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I wish there were more weekends I could spend in this luxury...

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Hawaii

Recently I went to the Big Island of Hawaii for a little holiday. We travelled most of the way round the island, visiting all sorts of different landscapes...and sketching...I loved seeing the sea, in pretty coves and the wide, wide open...We stayed in wonderful retro hotels that felt like Wes Anderson movies, and saw secret and mysterious bays,and lush, tropical rainforests with towering trees and ferns...

and then visited the dry, ashy caldera of the most active volcano in the world, in Volcanoes National Park.

We watched bright green lizards playing,and every morning watched the sun rise over the palms...I can't wait to go back again. Aloha!

Grand Teton National Park

When we visited Yellowstone, we also went to the Grand Teton National Park, and I found it more beautiful than I could have imagined.We stood at the same point that Ansel Adams took his famous photograph, overlooking the winding Snake River, and I did a pencil and watercolour sketch.The wildfires in nearby Montana were making the skies a strange smoky texture, and many of the views we had were softened and mysterious. We went on an early morning river rafting trip and I managed to paint a few quick sketches of the passing scenery and sunrise. We saw elk, moose, bald eagles and even two baby bears.

It was a truly inspiring place; a smaller but perfect National Park. I loved it.

Kawaguchiko

This weekend I did a little sightseeing around where I'm staying, in Kawaguchiko, Japan. There are a series of caves you can visit at the foot of Mt Fuji, formed from lava from the last eruption. The Narusawa Ice Cave is one of them, and is a National Monument. And also a little bit scary to get through due to the extremely low ceilings. The entrance is fascinating, as you go down under the floor of the forest, and suddenly it's literally ice cold, like you've walked into a fridge. The haze you can see in the photo is the air condensating between hot + humid and freezing! A walk in the sea of trees, along lava strewn paths, was also truly beautiful: it had my favourite combo of moss and ferns.I visited a site called Saiko Iyashi no sato NENBA, a recreation of a thatched village that was destroyed by a typhoon in the 60s. Each lovely building had examples of local crafts.And of course, a visit to the opposite side of Lake Kawaguchiko, to get a magnificent view of the sacred mountain, looking just like a Hokusai print.

East Coast trip

I've just come home from a wonderful visit in New York and Washington DC. I love NY, and it felt wonderful to meet friends and wander in all my special spots...bellhop I showed my portfolio, ate fun dinners, and saw some inspiring exhibitions in both cities. sketchbooks

I was super excited to see the Lincoln Memorial on the National Mall, the White House, the Museum of American History and the Capitol.dcI was especially moved by the Jefferson memorial, as he's my favourite US President of all!jefferson

Vienna trip

I spent a few days in Vienna recently, and finally managed to eat at the famous Cafe Central with its glorious arched ceilings.cafe centraleI mixed it up a bit, and then went for cake at Simoni's, a very modern cafe, and just as delicious.simonisThe big revelation for me was the visit to the Kunsthistoriches Museum. I couldn't believe how many truly amazingly beautiful works of art there were.museumMy favourites were this portrait of a lady by Rubens...rubensand this absolute gem by Vermeer. It gave me such a lovely warm feeling.vermeerVienna is such a beautiful city, even the hotdog stands are like works of art. This photograph is my tribute to Hopper, and features Durer's Hare on the roof.hopper

Kyushu part II

From Kumamoto, we travelled by scenic train to Kagoshima, with its famous active volcano Sakurajima. We visited up close, riding the boat across the bay, watching nervously at the smoke puffing gently from the top...sakurajimaWe spent a day further south in Ibusuki, and visited the famous sand baths. At Yamakawa it was calm, almost tropical, and we saw another famous mountain called Kaimondake, with its perfectly conical shape.ibusukiThe skies we saw over the waters were truly magical through the train windows, as we travelled along the coast.coastWe ate at a tiny restaurant, that specialised in local style yakitori, and the regulars were amazed to see us. These sorts of places are what make travel amazing...IMG_9169From there we made our way to Kurokawa Onsen, passing by yet another active volcano, Aso san. At Kurokawa we stayed in a lovely traditional ryokan and tried many different sorts of onsen baths. We rested, and walked in the Autumnal mountains.autumn And then back we went to Fukuoka for one more evening of tasty food. Here's a lovely tempura place we found, dating back to the 1930's!IMG_8230And then on to Tokyo, and home.

Montana road trip - part 1

We've just started our road trip in Montana and I'm already loving it. We landed in Missoula, and were greeted by this bear at the airport.bear We spent our first day wandering the town on the hottest day of the year so far (40C!) We tried huckleberry pancakes for breakfast, and huckleberry ice cream to cool down in the afternoon, what a delight!huckleberriesWe browsed junk shops in the historical part of town, full of fascinating Americana and I bought a wonderful box of vintage pencils, hurrah!Who knows what wonderful things we'll see when we set off today, into the Great Plains...

Follow my trip on instagram @mariko.jesse

kokeshi

I've been trying to do more mokuhanga, and recently completed this print of Japanese kokeshi dolls for my new collaborative project with Yoomni Nam and Katie Baldwin.kokeshi 2 c;eaned This time we're calling our project alabama + california + kansas. You can find out more on our blog. We'll again be travelling to visit each other in our studios in these locations, and sending work to each other. Here's a pic of the wood block for this print, as I was carving it.

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Connecticut magazines

I recently created some maps for a series of town guide magazines for Litchfield, Ridgefield, Fairfield, Bedford + Pound Ridge, and Wilton, in beautiful Connecticut, USA. The magazines are super nicely produced, and full of useful local information.Exif_JPEG_PICTURE I illustrated one map per magazine, like this:bedford mapSmall details from the maps were used throughout the articles to highlight various attractions and historical notes.Exif_JPEG_PICTUREYou can see the town websites here. I hope I can go there one day!